1 x Stainless steel post (4-hole)
1 x Aluminium H-profile (curved)
1 x Plastic C-connector for the handrail
4 x Stainless steel metal screws 6.3 x 16
4 x Stainless steel oval-head screws M10 x 16
Firstly screw the stainless steel post (4 holes) to the type of feet you wish to use (the photograph shows stainless steel feet - posts for floor mounting). Use the 4 no. M10 x 16 stainless steel oval-head screws for this. Do not fully tighten the screws so that you can adjust the height afterwards if you need to.
The specific distance of the drill holes to the sill must be adhered to, depending on the type of feet, base surface (i.e. concrete or timber) and screws. Ask the screw manufacturer for more precise information. The positioning of the posts depends on the type of feet used, the type of base surface and the screw manufacturer's specification. This can result in differences in the section lengths of your railing from the outside edge of the sill.
The maximum distance between two posts, measured from post centre to post centre - is 1.0 m (1000 mm) according to the TÜV Test Institute. A standard pane of glass can be used without needing to be cut if this distance is adhered to precisely.
Drill holes for the dowels on the markings. You do not need any dowels in concrete when using the self-tapping stainless steel concrete screws (10.0 x 85/10) supplied with the LIGHTLINE system. Please ask for advice from your DIY store or from the screw manufacturer when using other base surfaces.
Screw the installed posts into the countersunk dowels, using washers to ensure that they are held securely.
Using a spirit level you can adjust the fixing point of the stainless steel posts in the longitudinal opening. This ensures that the railing system is level, even in the event of slight unevenness of the base surface. Use an Allen key to screw fix the posts tightly to the fixed feet.
The aluminium end profile (U-profile) supports and protects the panes of acrylic glass. Measure the length you require for your side and cut the U-profile to size. Should you need more than an entire end profile (2.25 m) or wish to use up smaller sections, ensure that the U-profiles ideally butt against each other in line with the posts, thereby hiding the small gap where the ends meet.
Fit the correct length of U-profile in the correct position at the base of the posts. To do so open the Click-Locks at the top of the posts and guide the U-profile with the openings facing upwards until it reaches its resting position.
Open the "Click-Locks" on all of the posts and insert the panes of acrylic glass in turn from above. The plate must fit exactly into the lower U-profile.
Then take hold of the aluminium H-profile (curved) noting the label with the direction narrow.
Insert the H-profile carefully between the two panes of acrylic glass into the area provided for this on the posts.
You can now fit the next pane of acrylic glass. Firstly position the pane between the two posts.
Always use the narrow curved panes (330 mm) to complete a side - to form an angle. Also ensure that the inwardly curved panes (concave) are used with internal angles With external angles, use the correspondingly outwardly curved panes (convex). This will ensure that you obtain a parallel gap in the corner area in spite of the typical curved shape.
The longer aluminium profiles for the handrail measure 957 mm and the groove fits the width of a pane of acrylic glass exactly. Use shorter aluminium profiles (314 mm) for narrow panes of acrylic glass.
The aluminium handrail is the correct length if it extends approx. 3 mm beyond the inner aluminium profile. Should you need to fit a stainless steel angle bracket or stainless steel universal fixing, the aluminium handrail should even extend approx. 7 mm.
With freestanding railings, close off the open ends of the handrail with the stainless steel end caps.
With angled installations, fit the 90° stainless steel angle bracket or the stainless steel universal fixing for the handrail under the end profiles.